I make my own -- they're pretty easy to make.
SOCK HAMMOCK
I made this kind first and my rats love it.
Take a large old sock and cut off the
toe.
I also cut off the leg part of
the sock because the one I picked was really
long. I was left with the
foot, heel, and a little of the ankle.
Run two ropes parallel to each other, through
the wire of the cage. Tie a
knot at the end so they stay up. Thread
the sock onto the ropes, then poke
the ropes through the far side of the cage and
tie two more knots.
That's it!
PANTS-LEG HAMMOCK
Same concept as above: cut a section of
leg off an old pair of pants, so
you have a ready-made cylinder. String
it up with ropes or dowels. I've
never made one like this, but as soon as I have
an old pair of jeans I
intend to try it!
FABRIC HAMMOCK
Take a rectangle of fabric and sew it so it makes
a cylinder. (e.g. put
the two edges you want to sew together like lips,
with the wrong side out.
Sew with a machine or baste by hand. Turn
the cylinder right side out so
raw edges are inside). String up with ropes
like the above hammock.
You can use just about any fabric. An
old
sweatshirt, some polar fleece,
jeans, cotton, whatever. Stay away from
terrycloth or any kind of looped
fabric (which can catch toes). Be
suspicious
of fabric with elastic or
hanging threads in it for the same reason.
In my experience, my rats
prefer thick or dark fabrics.
OPEN HAMMOCK
I made one of these by cutting a rectangle out
of an old pair of
sweatshorts. I cut a hole in each corner,
tied a rope through each hole,
and strung it up inside the cage, open.
Grommets would have been nice, but
I didn't use them. The rats were not
enthused
and never used this
hammock... I'm not sure why. Could
be because a) they rarely went to that
side of the cage anyway or b) the hammock was
unsteady.
I know others on the list make more
sophisticated
open hammocks with
squares of polar fleece, grommets, and nice
hanging
cords. Does anyone
have directions for those?
FERRET HAMMOCK
I believe you can purchase hammocks made for
ferrets.
They are essentially
like the "open hammock" described above -- an
open square of fabric
(usually polar fleece or other soft fabric)
supported
at all four corners
by grommets & cords with hooks on them, or
fabric strips sewn to the
corners. I've made all my rat toys so I've
never bought one -- they cost
between $6 and $13, which is rather
expensive...
especially as rats are
big chewers so they could really destroy a
hammock
in a short span of time
:)
Anne
http://www.ratbehavior.org/
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Most ratters get their very first rat at a pet
shop. When they approach a
staffer for help, they are offered (in addition
to their $2.99 bundle of
love) a plethora of other small animal items
for purchase at the same time.
MOST pet store will recommend a bunch of stuff
that is either a) unsafe or
unsuitable for rats; b) overpriced and
low-quality;
or c) all of the above.
Among these items is bedding. Unfortunately,
what is usually recommended --
by pet shops AND many pet rat books -- is not
good for the health and
well-being of our pet rats. In other words, they
hand you a bag of cedar or
pine bedding and send you home with your new
little friend, completely
unaware that you are in possession of a product
which has been proven to be
lethal to small animals.
All softwood beddings (which include cedar and
pine) contain aromatic
hydrocarbons (phenols) that are toxic. The
immediate
effects of living in or
around these phenols can include allergic
reactions
and the triggering of
Mycolplasma Pulmonis-related infections, which
can become severe and fatal
rather quickly. It is not merely an issue of
"allergies": the phenols
actually get into the rat's bloodstream and
damage
the lining of the lungs
and trachea. In the long term, extensive damage
to the liver can occur. When
a rat's liver ceases to function properly,
his/her
body cannot effectively
cleanse itself of toxins. The result is a
severely
weakened immune system
and, inevitably, a very sick rat. There is little
chance of repairing the
damage done at this point.
In short, do not use pine or cedar bedding --
no matter what the folks in
the pet shop try to tell you. These beddings
may be cheaper and more common
than some of the alternatives, but the trade-off
is NOT worth it.
For more in-depth reading on the damaging
effects
of pine and cedar bedding,
I recommend the following links:
* The Toxicity of Pine and Cedar Shavings / by
Debbie "The Rat Lady" Ducommun
http://www.ratfanclub.org/litters.html
* The Problem With
Pine: A Discussion of Softwood
Beddings / by Elizabeth R. TeSelle
http://www.afrma.org/rminfo2a.htm
* Litterboxes and Liver Disease / by Marinell
Harriman
http://www.rabbit.org/journal/1/liver-disease.html
* Respiratory Toxicity of Cedar and Pine Wood
/ by Jeff Johnston
http://www.trifl.org/cedar.shtml
So, what DO you use, then?
There are many, many options available when it
comes to bedding for pet
rats. To simplify things a bit, I'll break down
the list of choices into
four groups: wood, paper, plant, and cloth. Note
that this is not an
all-inclusive list of safe beddings, but rather
a list of the more widely-used varieties.
WOOD BEDDINGS:
1) Aspen. Aspen is a hardwood, and is free of
the phenols present in
softwood beddings. It's available in several
forms: shreds, curls, and
pellets. The most common is shredded, which is
exactly what it sounds like.
The texture is soft and light. Curled aspen is,
in appearance, very much
like the pine bedding commonly seen in pet shops.
Pelleted aspen (most
often packaged as bird litter) looks a bit like
guinea pig food. It has a
wonderful, light scent and is very absorbent.
You may feel that the texture
is a bit too rough to use as an allover cage
bedding, in which case it can
be mixed with a softer bedding (like shredded
aspen) or used solely in the
litter box. When buying aspen, be sure to look
for bags that haven't been
sitting on a store shelf for eons, as they may
have broken down a bit and
become dusty.
Buying aspen online:
PetSmart
(shredded)
PetCo
(pelleted)
The
Ferret Store (pelleted & shredded)
Pet
Food Express (shredded)
2) Sani-Chips. These are teeny-tiny square
chips
of mixed hardwoods (aspen &
maple). I do not have personal experience with
Sani-Chips, but those who
have report they are very absorbant. Read more
about them here:
http://www.pjmurphy.net/sanichips/
PAPER BEDDINGS:
1) Carefresh. Manufactured in Canada,
Carefresh
is widely available
throughout N. America. The texture is a bit like
shredded egg cartons (the
paper kind, of course!). Carefresh is made from
sanitized pre-consumer
virgin wood pulp -- it's the stuff that doesn't
make it into paper. It can
be flushed down the toilet in small quantities,
is readily biodegradable,
and is safe to use in a compost. Carefresh does
an excellent job of
controlling odor and is highly absorbent. Some
rats, however, appear
to be allergic to something in the bedding (this
is rare), so you'd be best
starting off with a small bag to see if it goes
over well before you buy
half the factory! I should also mention that
some humans find the odor
of the Carefresh itself (it smells like
unprocessed
wood pulp!) to be
unpleasant. Personally, I love it. It reminds
me of the acid free papers
used to make fine books.
Buying Carefresh online:
PetSmart
PetCo
The
Ferret Store
Pet
Food Express
2) Yesterday's News. This is a pelleted litter
made from recycled newspaper.
Yesterday's News comes in both a larger pellet
(good for litter boxes and
mixing with softer bedding -- it's a bit too
rough to use as an overall
substrate) as well as a new softer "crushed"
pellet, which works great as an
overall bedding. Dust content is very low, and
you really don't have to use
a lot of it in the cage pan. I've been using
YN for years with my ferrets,
and it is definitely one of the more absorbant
products on the market.
[NB: use of the lemon-scented YN is not
recommended with rats.]
Buying Yesterday's News online:
PetSmart
PetCo
The
Ferret Store
PLANT FIBRE BEDDINGS:
1) Corn Cob. This is what it sounds like it
is:
dried corn kernels. I
actually do not recommend the use of corn cob
bedding with rats for
several reasons. Because it is so dry, it can
sap a rat's fur and skin of its
natural oils. In young rats, this can lead to
a condition called "ringtail",
which in advanced stages can actually cause a
portion of the tail to fall
off. Additionally, I have heard a few stories
about rats choking on corn cob
when trying to eat it. Aside from these immediate
physical risks, corn cob
is also quite a poor bedding material. Any
moisture
in the underlying layers
of litter will turn mouldy rather quickly, and
the odor control is truly sub-par.
2) Critter Country. These are wheat grass
pellets
silimar to pelleted aspen
in texture and absorbancy. An upside is that
they have a delightful scent
(like cut meadow grass), so they are wonderful
for mixing with other soft
litters or in for use in the litter box.
Buying Critter Country online:
PetCo
Pet
Food Express
CLOTH BEDDING:
Cloth bedding is by far the cheapest and most
readily-available bedding
option for rats, and for some people it works
quite nicely. You can use
cut-up old t-shirts, tea-towels, flannel, cloth
baby diapers, etc. Just be
sure not to use any looped fabric (like terry
cloth) or anything with
dangling threads as a rat's toenail could easily
get caught and possibly
torn out. If you use cloth bedding, you will
need to change it every day or
two. You can wash them in the machine in the
hot water cycle (no scented
detergents, please!) with a small amount of
bleach,
and simply re-use them.
If they get too skanky for use, just toss them.
HINT: fabric bedding works
much better if you've litter-trained
your rats.
Anna Dorfman
anna@helloimage.com
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